Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
